We’ve hit the halfway point of this epic journey and I can’t quite believe how much we’ve crammed into a short space of time. We’re moving on just as we’re hitting our stride in a city, onto the next adventure and colossal experience. I suspect that once we return home and we have time to reflect, that’ll be when the magnitude of what we’ve seen and done will hit us. New York was a bit like that. It was only when we returned that we really appreciated it. Life on the road has become a way of life, and the reality and responsibilities of Manchester has become a distant memory. We’re travellers now, even if only for sixteen nights, and this nomad life isn’t half liberating, exciting, and enticing.

The road to Nashville brings another bout of resplendent scenery as we climb further up into more mountainous regions and dip down again. Evidence of hurricane activity can be identified from the way clusters of trees have either been felled or curved over from the stormy winds.

The landscapes never get tedious, and with dusk setting in, it makes for an even more exquisite image as the sun’s dark orange backdrop creates a dusty glow across the undulating forests and woodlands in the distance.

I wish I was more outdoorsy, like Bear Grylls, because nothing would give me greater satisfaction than to be able to backpack my way through the heavy forestry and really explore the nature of the Deep South. As it happens I wouldn’t last five minutes and would likely be eaten by a bear.

The city of Nashville appears within minutes after exiting the rural setting. I’m surprised to see a series of skyscrapers densely packed together. My assumption was that Nashville would be more a low-rise building kind of city that’s still holding onto the theme of country and western, a bit like Sedona out in Arizona. I couldn’t be more wrong.

As the mid-evening darkness looms, we arrived at our aparthotel. We stayed at the Placemakr, about a twenty-five-minute walk into the energetic Downtown area in Music Row. Music Row is famed for where a lot of the record labels of the music scene are located. The place we’re staying in is classy. It’s incredibly spacious and fully equipped with everything we need, including a cooker, a fridge, and most importantly, a washer/dryer, which is essential when on the road.

Rather than hit the main area, we stayed local as there are a few bars right next to where we’re staying, and judging from our arrival into the city, it looks lively. We enter the bar, Live Oak, where I’m asked for I.D. I don’t think it was an age issue as to why they asked, more the need of actually having identification. The bar is full of energy, noticeably with a much younger crowd than what we’ve been used to so far this trip. Typically, there is live music, but it’s done a little differently. Four solo artists line-up on the stage and play three songs each before leaving and the next four get up. It’s a cool way of showcasing your talent for a moment, and there is some definite talent on offer.

We pulled up stools at the bar and absorb the atmosphere. One thing I have noticed about America, is that there is a variety of sport constantly being shown hourly. I developed a love for Basketball during lockdown back in 2020, so to watch live games at a reasonable hour is quite exciting. New York Knicks vs Boston Celtics was on, and having seen a live Knicks game before, I’m rooting for them. They end up winning.

The next day we take a walk down Broadway that leads into the busy Downtown area. It’s about twenty-five-minutes away, and for the first twenty there’s nothing that suggests we’re in the mecca of country and western music. Then, as we hit a short peak in the road and dip down again, the city explodes into life. I have never seen anything like it. Wall to wall bars next door to each other, and every single one of them has a band or an artist on show, playing mainly covers with a few originals thrown in. The place is awash with people, the bars are busy, and it’s only 2pm on a Monday. I can only imagine what a weekend would look like. I later found out its Spring Break, but it’s still impressive. This side of Broadway has an amazing vibe and was completely unexpected. I was like a kid in a candy shop trying to decide which bar to go in first. There were too many to choose from, but the day was spent trying to get about a few different ones, and immerse ourselves into the country and western lifestyle. I enjoyed some of the names of these bars. You know you’re in the Deep South when you see bars called Long Bastard Saloon, Nudie’s Honky Tonk, Honky Tonk Central, and Kid Rock’s Big Ass Honky Tonk Rock N Roll Steakhouse.

The women all walk about with shin high cowboy boots, denim shorts and Stetson hats, all reflecting the stereotype of the country and western dress sense. The men tend to wear trucker mesh caps. The typical look of double denim wasn’t really in place here. Maybe that’s just Texas, or maybe it’s because the weather is roasting.

Highlighting where we are in the world, one bar asked me to lift my t-shirt up to check to see if I had a gun. Speaking of which, we got chatting to three ladies in their sixties, who resembled the Golden Girls. One was an ex-copper and was packing a gun in her handbag, citing, ‘You don’t bring a knife to a gun fight’ as her reason for doing so. The attitudes of the South were more prominent during this conversation. They weren’t happy with current President Joe Biden, saying that he’s trying to be tougher around gun laws. It’s obvious the US has a massive gun problem, but this wasn’t the time or place to argue my point.

Their unrivalled patriotism could be felt here too. One of the ladies was telling us that she was somewhere earlier where they played the national anthem and an individual didn’t stand up showing his respect. She told us that she marched over to him and screamed, ‘Fuckin Democrat!!’ in his face. Bonkers! On the subject of patriotism, it has been noticed on more than one occasion on our travels the amount of houses that have the US flag flying high.

I love the accent of folk in this neck of the woods. Of course I’ve heard it on TV several times, but to converse with these people who address you as Sir and Ma’am carries a certain charm. Me and Suze can’t get enough. Adding to that, their hospitality and kindness is unmatched. They really do go above and beyond. Being from the North of England, also famous for our friendliness, you can see how we get on with the locals of this part of the world.

Other than dive head first into Broadway, Nashville offers little else, if you’re not a huge country and western fan that is. In preparation for Nashville, I’d joined Facebook Groups taking advice of the locals, and it seems that the main thing to do is to eat and drink on Broadway. There are tours to the Grand Ole Opry and some country and western museums, along with a Johnny Cash Museum and Gibson Guitar Tour, but other than that, it’s just a place to experience a booze session in an environment never seen before. It’s like a constant festival of music is happening.

Jack Daniels Tour

We left Nashville, making our way south to Miami, where we required a stopover in Georgia for some mid-driving rest. Before then, there was the small matter of visiting the factory of something that has been responsible for many a hangover in my life – a tour of Jack Daniels.

It’s about an hour and twenty minutes drive down there from Nashville, and once we exit the busy freeways, we could see the real Tennessee. Incredible imagery that will stay with me forever. Huge mansions plonked in the middle of fields that have no business being there create a bit of a wow factor. The lands are pristine. A friend of mine described the drive down to me as being in an US 1950s postcard. I couldn’t have put it better myself. Delving deeper into the Tennessee villages, the scenery becomes even more breathtaking as creeks and woodland dominate the areas, dissected by smooth, grey tarmac roads where the car just glides over it. It feels like I’m in a Chevrolet advert, highlighting just how good the ride is.

We arrived at the Jack Daniels Factory, situated in a little rural village called Lynchburg, which funnily enough is a dry place, but a deal had been struck where the purchase and consumption of alcohol was permitted within the Jack Daniels Factory grounds. This is the only place that produces Jack Daniels in the whole world, and we’re on a tour to find out how. Unfortunately, due to me driving, we’re on the dry tour, so no tastings could be had, but to learn about the history, and to see the process in action of how it goes from a bourbon to a Tennessee Whisky (huge difference) was extremely interesting, and such a unique experience to be part of. Some of the aromas on the tour were nothing short of sensational. The whisky greases the air in certain parts and you can’t help but float along as you inhale it’s potent fumes.

The UK is the biggest importer of Jack Daniels we’re told, and it’s hard to see why not given its everywhere. Looking in the White Rabbit shop after the tour was like I’d died and gone to whisky heaven. Wall to wall bottles of the various Jack Daniels gleamed on the shelves. I was tempted to buy one and neck it there and then. What did strike me is that the cost of the bottle was much more expensive than a bottle from your local ASDA. How is that possible given there’s no transport costs?

Once we were done with the factory, it was onto South Georgia, another long drive on this epic trip.

Check out more pics and videos from Facebook and Instagram